I made  a miniature brass wobbler, to see if I could make such a small steam machines run. That one ran, so I figured a cubic zirconia one would as well.

I start with raw cubic zirconia.
It comes in many colours and these were the ones I had on hand at the time.

Cubic zirconia gets cut with a diamond saw.
The blade has diamond particles impregnated in the edge .
It spins very fast and is lubricated with a constant water through flow.
It is not sharp in the conventional sense so my hands are quite safe.

The yellow piece was first of four center posts I made.
All the others broke. As I said, patience was strong in this one.
The center pivot is fitted loosely in the laminated cylinder and the piston has also been turned on my lathe. 
The pivot and piston are made out of 14 ct gold.
I have also made the bottom end of the piston, which is the part that will go into the crankshaft.

Cutting the crankshaft wheel on a gem faceting machine

Which promptly broke. I made seven of these before I got one that worked well.
CZ is a very brittle material, and some colours are decidedly more brittle than others. So every time I would make a new one, I would choose a different colour.
Topaz blue is the most brittle colour, I found.

All the CZ being roughly formed.
The pink will become the flywheel.
The maroon piece is the flywheel shaft bearing. It's colour change material, maroon under incandescent lighting and yellow under fluorescent lights.
Seriously cool material
The purple is the crankshaft wheel.

I had to see if the wobbler would actually run, before I started faceting all the individual components. So I stuck everything to a piece of glass and made some temporary silver tubing and connected it to a compressor. The cylinder has a upside down Iolite gemstone glued onto it temporarily just so the cylinder can keep pressure.
Classiest cylinder head in the world.

So then I proceeded with the crankshaft wheel, first drilling the holes with a diamond core drill. I decided to make the crank shaft wheel first. Drilling causes the most chance of breaking.
Smoothing out the holes before polishing the insides. One always has to work wet.
The standard method for faceting the wheel was used, namely, first facet one side, then use a transfer dop and facet the other side.
Here is the fly wheel completed.

Here are all the components waiting for the base.
I faceted the cylinder head in a sort of opposed bar cut.There are 260 facets all in all.

I made the base out of a colour change piece of CZ.
It goes red under incandescent light.
This machine sparkled very differently under different light, and because of CZ's high Refractive Index, it sparkled quite easily. This was a critical stage, because if anything was skew, and the holes did not align, the resin would not allow me to remove anything once hardened and the project would have to be scrapped.
So I was very careful.

Now was time to make the silver base stand. Once I had the plate shaped, I cut cast and rolled and bent some leg blanks. Then I filed them to shape. Also, my stamps on the bottom.

I made some tubing for the inlet. This had to be made very accurately, because when you insert it into the CZ and if it is only a little bit skew, the CZ will crack.
And I know all about cracking.
Also, it had to be removable, so it had to fit quite accurately without glue.

Fitting the little motor onto the stand.
The nut in the picture is replaced by a gold cap. The spring next to the nut, I also made out of gold.